• George Washington's Epaulets
    Unknown
    military
    fashion
    textiles
    clothing & accessories
    These epaulets were worn by future president George Washington to demonstrate his status in the military. They are made of gold bullion-thread tassels with gilt sequins and twisted bullion bows intermixed. They also have a strap of metallic yarn and a buff wool lining. Epaulets like these served as visual symbols of military rank, indicating order and authority within the Continental Army. For Washington, these decorative shoulder pieces were just one feature of military dress within a system of uniform regulations designed to project professionalism. These epaulets can be seen in portraits painted by American artist Charles Wilson Peale between 1779 and 1780. Washington served as the commander in chief of the Continental Army during the American Revolution. He served as president from April 30, 1789 until March 4, 1797.
  • Abraham Lincoln's Cravat
    Unknown
    textiles
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    This silk cravat was owned by President Abraham Lincoln. A cravat is a band of cloth worn around the neck. President Lincoln's cravat was pre-tied and fastened at the back. The bow was also intentionally sewn on crooked, since Lincoln preferred to wear it slightly off-center. This preference could be due to Lincoln's favoring an early 1850s trend in neckwear, when neckties became thinner and were tied asymmetrically with one side of the bow extended.
  • Detail of President Abraham Lincoln's Coat
    Brooks Brothers
    textiles
    clothing & accessories
    fashion
    A frequent customer of Brooks Brothers, President Abraham Lincoln commissioned an embroidered coat from the American clothing brand, which he wore on the night of his second Inauguration, as well as the night of his assassination. The jacket’s long, structured silhouette resembled that of his usual frock coat, but the interior featured a message embroidered in silk twill: an eagle holding a banner in its beak along with the words, “One Country, One Destiny.” Following President Lincoln’s assassination, First Lady Mary Lincoln gifted the coat to Lincoln’s favorite doorman, Alphonse Donn. Pieces of this bloodstained coat were taken as souvenirs, causing irreparable damage to the piece. This coat was photographed in 2007 by Carol M. Highsmith. Lincoln became president on March 4, 1861 and had earlier served in the House of Representatives.
  • President Abraham Lincoln's Office Suit
    Hugh Talman
    clothing & accessories
    fashion
    textiles
    This office suit was worn by President Abraham Lincoln. It features a black broadcloth coat, vest, and trousers. The shirt and tie are reproductions of the originals President Lincoln wore. Lincoln’s office suit was used in a preliminary study for a posthumous portrait by Boston artist William Morris Hunt. In May 1865 Mary Lincoln sent Thomas Pendel, the White House doorkeeper, to deliver the suit. Pendel, being about the same size as Lincoln, posed in the clothing for the artist. Hunt kept the suit, and in 1894 his widow donated the clothing to the Smithsonian. Lincoln became president on March 4, 1861 and had earlier served in the House of Representatives.
  • President Abraham Lincoln's Top Hat
    J. Y. Davis
    textiles
    clothing & accessories
    fashion
    This top hat was made by J. Y. Davis and worn by President Abraham Lincoln the night he was assassinated at Ford's Theatre in Washington, D.C. on April 15, 1865. President Lincoln’s iconic top hat style dates back to at least the 1830s, when he was seen in New Salem, Illinois, wearing a top hat and a grey suit. While the top hats of the 1830s had a more curved line, a brief period in the 1850s saw the popularity of the stove pipe hat, a top hat with an eight-inch crown and straighter sides. Lincoln became president on March 4, 1861 and earlier served in the House of Representatives.
  • Men's Suit circa 1830-1840
    Unknown
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This is a wool dress coat paired with matching trousers from circa 1830-1840. The 1820s brought significant changes to menswear, including the decline of breeches and the rise of trousers. By the late 1820s, trousers became standard for men’s daywear. President John Quincy Adams was the first president to wear long trousers at his Inauguration, where he was described as wearing a “plain suit of black.” This image shows what the suit he wore to his Inauguration may have looked like. This style of dress coat features puffed shoulders, and a nipped-in and straight-cut waistline, with narrowly fitted matching trousers. This kind of suit was worn for formal occasions, and was well-suited for his Inaugural Address. This suit is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
  • George Washington's Regimentals
    Unknown
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This blue wool coat is part of a suit of regimentals made for President George Washington in 1789. It has a buff wool rise-and-fall collar, buff cuffs and lapels, and buff lining; there is a row of yellow metal buttons on each lapel, as well as on each cuff. The waistcoat and breeches are matching buff wool, with gilt buttons. This uniform was worn by President Washington from 1789 until his death in 1799. The small clothes, or breeches and waistcoat, date from the revolutionary period. Washington often posed for life portraits during this period, and was often depicted wearing this uniform. None of his uniforms from the Revolutionary War period are known to have survived. As the leader of the Continental Army, Washington wanted troops to present themselves as a professional military organization, and a proper uniform was one way of showing a unified front. In commemoration of Washington’s attention to detail, the colors of blue and buff remained the accepted pattern for United States Army uniforms until the beginning of the Civil War. Washington served as the Commander in Chief of the Continental Army during the American Revolution. He served as president from April 30, 1789 until March 4, 1797.
  • Flounce with Flowers, Scrolling Leaves, and Scalloped Boarder
    Unknown
    textile
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    weddings
    This flounce is an example of Spanish blonde silk Bobbin lace made in the 19th century. Elizabeth Tyler, daughter of President John Tyler and First Lady Letitia Christian Tyler, wore a wedding veil said to be of blonde lace, a type of silk Bobbin lace, originally made in France and worn by wealthy women in the 18th and 19th centuries. It is made of raw, undyed silk threads, which is where the term “blonde lace” comes from. In later years, blonde lace dyed black also became a popular trimming for expensive gowns. Elizabeth Tyler married William Waller in an intimate White House ceremony on January 31, 1842.
  • Silk Taffeta and Silk Blonde Lace Wedding Ensemble, Mid 19th Century
    Unknown
    weddings
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This wedding ensemble from circa 1841 - 1843 was crafted in the United State of America and was made from silk taffeta and blonde lace. Elizabeth Tyler, daughter of President John Tyler and First Lady Letitia Christian Tyler, married William Waller in an intimate White House ceremony on January 31, 1842. Though no exact details of Elizabeth’s wedding gown remain, this ensemble depicts the style of the decade, with sloping shoulders, an elongated, small waist, full skirt, and an exposed neckline. The blonde lace, silk, and restrained style is reminiscent of the few words illustrating Elizabeth Tyler's gown on the day of her nuptials.
  • Silk Wedding Ensemble
    Unknown
    weddings
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This silk wedding ensemble from 1844 originated in Europe and is an example of a silk bridal costume in the 1840s style. Elizabeth Tyler, daughter of President John Tyler and First Lady Letitia Christian Tyler, married William Waller in an intimate White House ceremony on January 31, 1842. Though no exact details of Elizabeth’s wedding gown remain, it is known that her blonde lace veil was made of silk, similar to this gown, making it reasonable that her gown had silk fabrics or trimmings. American silk production had increased by the 1840s and one estimate of American silk production in 1843 valued it at $1.4 million. In December 1839, a national silk convention was held in Baltimore. The rising agricultural and political importance of American-made silk may have led to its incorporation in Elizabeth’s wedding gown.
  • French Empire Wedding Dress, Early 19th Century
    Unknown
    weddings
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This circa 1804-1805 evening dress was possibly owned by Baltimore socialite Elizabeth Patterson. Patterson wed, and endured an ill-fated marriage, to Jerome Bonaparte, the brother of Napoleon Bonaparte. The wedding gown represents the popular French Empire style in American fashion systems in the early 19th century. The Grecian-inspired loose drapery, puffed sleeves, low neckline, high waistline, and light-colored, very sheer fabric with delicate cotton embroidery replicated the French Empress Josephine’s famous style. The French Empire style of this gown is believed to be similar to the wedding gown worn by Maria Monroe, daughter of President James Monroe and First Lady Elizabeth Monroe, during her wedding to Samuel Gouverneur in a White House ceremony on March 19, 1820.
  • Sleeveless Black Cocktail Dress, Ann Lowe
    Ann Lowe
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This dress was created by Ann Lowe, a dressmaker, seamstress, and couturier who designed the wedding dress of future first lady Jacqueline Kennedy for her wedding to John F. Kennedy on September 12, 1953. Like many of Lowe’s other creations, this black sleeveless cocktail dress demonstrates her love for floral decorations. The bodice is made from black chiffon and the neckline is trimmed with green vines and pink roses made of satin. The green cummerbund of the bodice overlays a tightly pleated, full chiffon skirt. The dress has a zipper closure in the back that starts at the top of the bodice and ends below the waist.
  • Mrs. Ford's Dark Pink Brocade Gown
    Frankie Welch
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    First Lady Betty Ford wore this dark pink brocade gown by designer Frankie Welch twice during the 1974 holiday season. The gown features detailed gold embroidery of chrysanthemums throughout with a V neck in front and a high-neck collar influenced by the traditional cheongsam dress.
  • Mrs. Ford's Green Satin Gown with Embroidery and Sequins
    Frankie Welch
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This green satin gown is a recreation of an identical gown made by designer Frankie Welch for First Lady Betty Ford. Since there were no inaugural celebrations when President Gerald R. Ford was sworn into office following Richard M. Nixon’s resignation, Mrs. Ford wore this gown to two state dinners at the White House, as well as several other events. The gown, in Mrs. Ford’s favorite shade of green, features an embroidered surface design in a chrysanthemum pattern and sequins sewn throughout. The symmetry of the high neck and the deep V neckline was a very fashionable silhouette for the time.
  • Harvey Berin Dress by Karen Stark
    Karen Stark
    Harvey Berin
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This dress was created by designer Karen Stark under the Harvey Berin label circa 1960. The dress is made of silk with a floral pink and black design. The back features a V neckline with bows adorning at both the bottom of the V and at the sash encircling the waist. Stark was the lead designer under the design house of Harvey Berin for nearly fifty years. Stark’s designs for Harvey Berin featured flattering, feminine silhouettes with clean lines and sturdy materials. They were also less complicated and more functional than what French designers at the time were creating. First Lady Pat Nixon selected one of Stark's designs for Harvey Berin for her 1969 inaugural ball gown.
  • Mrs. Ford's Lemon-Yellow Chiffon Gown
    Frankie Welch
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    First Lady Betty Ford wore this lemon-yellow chiffon Frankie Welch gown for a state dinner with Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin of Israel in September 1974. This gown features a yellow, sheer chiffon layer with polka dots over a solid yellow spaghetti strapped dress. There are ruffles at the neckline, hem, and sleeves, and a satin bow around the waist. The gown closes with a zipper closure up the center back.
  • Teal Blue Dress and Cropped Jacket, Ann Lowe
    Ann Lowe
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This dress was created by Ann Lowe, a dressmaker, seamstress, and couturier who designed the wedding dress of future first lady Jacqueline Kennedy for her wedding to John F. Kennedy on September 12, 1953. This teal blue silk brocade dress and matching cropped jacket were designed by Lowe in the 1950s and was worn by Florence Colgate Rumbough Trevor, a member of high society. This dress features a V neckline, a fitted bodice, and a small train in the back. This structured silhouette and complex tailoring of this ensemble are evidence of Lowe’s outstanding artistry.
  • Mrs. Lincoln's Purple Velvet Dress (Daytime Bodice)
    Elizabeth Keckley
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This purple velvet dress by Elizabeth Keckley was created for First Lady Mary Lincoln during the 1861-1862 winter social season in Washington, D.C. Keckley designed the ensemble to include a skirt and two bodices -- one for the daytime and one for the evening. The daytime bodice, seen here, features white satin piping and mother of pearl buttons. Keckley, who was born enslaved, frequently designed dresses for Mrs. Lincoln. The two developed both a business partnership during Mrs. Lincoln's time in the White House as well as a friendship during that time. To see the evening bodice, see image 1135054.
  • Stars and Stripes Slippers, Elizabeth Keckley
    Elizabeth Keckley
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    These men’s stars and stripes boudoir slippers are attributed to Elizabeth Keckley. These were likely commissioned in circa 1865 by Mrs. Gideon Welles as a gift for her husband, Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy under President Abraham Lincoln. The body of the shoes is composed of red and white crochet stripes with a navy band and scattered white stars across the vamp. They contain a flat, leather sole and are edged in a twisted blue and red cord. Keckley, who was born enslaved, frequently designed dresses for First Lady Mary Lincoln. The two developed both a business partnership during Mrs. Lincoln's time in the White House as well as a friendship during that time.
  • Mrs. Lincoln's Purple Velvet Dress (Evening Bodice)
    Elizabeth Keckley
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This purple velvet dress by Elizabeth Keckley was created for First Lady Mary Lincoln during the 1861-1862 winter social season in Washington, D.C. Keckley designed the ensemble to include a skirt and two bodices -- one for the daytime and one for the evening. The evening bodice, seen here, features white satin piping and black and white lace-decorated sleeves. Keckley, who was born enslaved, frequently designed dresses for Mrs. Lincoln. The two developed both a business partnership during Mrs. Lincoln's time in the White House as well as a friendship during that time. To see the daytime bodice, see image 1135052.
  • Cream Silk Dress, Ann Lowe
    Ann Lowe
    fashion
    clothing & accessories
    textiles
    This dress was created by Ann Lowe, a dressmaker, seamstress, and couturier who designed the wedding dress of future first lady Jacqueline Kennedy for her wedding to John F. Kennedy on September 12, 1953. This dress was made in 1958 and was worn by Patricia Schieffer. It is made from cream silk faille and features embroidered floral appliqué embellishments throughout. The bodice has cap sleeves and a scoop neck front and back. An excellent example of Lowe’s gift for dress construction, this dress features boning sewn at regular intervals throughout to provide structure and support. Pannier-like structures underneath the petticoat provide fullness to the skirt.
  • Blue Room, John F. Kennedy Administration
    Robert L. Knudsen
    restoration
    refurbishment
    State Floor
    Blue Room
    textiles
    This photograph of the Blue Room was taken by Robert L. Knudsen on June 4, 1963, following its restoration under the guidance of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Mrs. Kennedy worked with French interior designer Stéphane Boudin on the restoration of the White House. The continuous valance encircling the top of the room was a technique used by Boudin to unify the room. A 19th-century Savonnerie carpet, a gift of Mary Lasker, was placed on the floor at the center of the room. The Blue Room is located on the State Floor of the Executive Mansion. The oval-shaped parlor has been known as the Blue Room since Martin Van Buren’s 1837 redecoration. The room is often used for receptions, photo opportunities, and during the holiday season is home to the official White House Christmas Tree.
  • Family Dining Room, Kennedy Administration
    Robert L. Knudsen
    refurbishment
    State Floor
    Family Dining Room
    textiles
    This photograph, taken by Robert L. Knudsen on August 28, 1963, shows the Family Dining Room on the State Floor following the refurbishment and repurposing of the room during the John F. Kennedy administrations. The redecoration of the room followed a vibrant yellow color scheme, featuring a gold lattice and pink rose rug personally selected for the room by interior designer Sister Parish. Other additions to the room included yellow silk curtains, a French white and dark green marble mantel, a New York convex mirror, and an 1859 portrait of Virginia planter Brig. Gen. John Hartwell Cocke by artist Edward Troye, From 1825 to 1962, presidents and their families traditionally dined in the Old Family Dining Room. In 1962 with the addition of a new private family dining room on the Second Floor of the White House, the room was repurposed for small official dinners, working lunches, and also serves as a staging area for state dinners. Located on the State Floor of the White House, the room features architectural details such as elegant plasterwork and vaulted ceilings. During the Barack Obama administration, the room was opened to public tours for the first time.
  • Oval Office Looking Towards the Fireplace, Kennedy Administration
    Cecil Stoughton
    refurbishment
    West Wing
    Oval Office
    textiles
    This photograph of the seating area next to the fireplace in the Oval Office shows the newly installed carpet that had been selected by President John F. Kennedy and French interior designer Stéphane Boudin. Cecil Stoughton photographed the office on November 23, 1963, the day after President Kennedy's assassination. Although the restoration of the White House is most closely associated with First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, President Kennedy himself guided the choices for the redecoration of the Oval Office. Tragically, he never saw the completed room, as the curtains and carpet were being installed while he was in Dallas in November 1963.
  • Oval Office, John F. Kennedy Administration
    Cecil Stoughton
    refurbishment
    West Wing
    Oval Office
    textiles
    This photograph of the Oval Office with recently-installed new carpet and drapes was taken by Cecil Stoughton on November 23, 1963, the day after the assassination of President John F. Kennedy. President Kennedy and French interior designer Stéphane Boudin selected the carpet and drapes. Although the restoration of the White House is most closely associated with First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, President Kennedy himself guided the choices for the redecoration of the Oval Office. Tragically, he never saw the completed room, as the curtains and carpet were being installed while he was in Dallas in November 1963.